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Simplicity 2053 Dress

Just like last year, I decided to make my dress for the Navy ball. I started Tuesday night and finished everything, but the hemming. I did change up the dress a little. Since I was using a polyester spandex blend fabric, I decided to not have a zipper – I would just pull it over my head. I did size 10 and it fit okay, I could have brought it in a little more, but I’m only wearing this dress once (at least that is what I plan) and so I really didn’t want to spend a bunch of time on it. I did view F on the pattern with the sleeves from view D. I also, didn’t put the buttons on the sleeves either and I gathered the back portion of the skirt so it would match up with the darts. That should not have been a problem, but since I didn’t use a zipper and I cut the back skirt on the bias, it made it a little big.

I’m glad my mother was here visiting so she could be a part of the dress! She’s amazing. The gold fabric, my husband and I chose, was chosen because he just received his wings of gold – we like to match and be cute. Haha. He’s now a naval aviator and will be flying super hornets! I am so proud!

Getting to work with my mom, who was visiting for my husband's winging !

Getting to work with my mom, who was visiting for my husband’s winging!

This pattern was fairly simple and easy to cut out. I liked it better than cutting out the satin from last year’s dress. It took me about 2 days to make. Technically, it was all done in one night (5 hours), but I just needed to put my wedges on that I was going to wear with the dress and hem it.

Here's the pinning of the pleats. They looked funky and it weird spots, but it turned out perfect when you had to match the bodice up.

Here’s the pinning of the pleats. They looked funky and it weird spots, but it turned out perfect when you had to match the bodice up.

The directions were a tad unclear about the pleats and I do not understand that extra little fabric tail – it served no purpose. I just matched up the top line with the second line and sewed those together. Then I matched the third with the fourth and so on.

Gathering at the back of the skirt so the darts would match up.

Gathering at the back of the skirt so the darts would match up.

Since I was not adding a zipper, I think I cut out a little too much fabric, especially on the bottom skirt. I just cut the pattern piece on the bias so there wouldn’t be a seam since I didn’t need one because of not having the zipper added. So to fix that and to make the darts match up, my mom and I just gathered it. It didn’t turn out too bad actually. I hate gathering, by the way. I’d rather make pleats (but NOT darts, I hate darts).

Getting ready for the ball and making sure we have everything.

Getting ready for the ball and making sure we have everything.

The dress turned out really well. I am not a fan of the sleeves at all. I should have just gathered them instead of making the two pleats. I just don’t like sleeves that come out far from my shoulders, I am kinda petite and I don’t think it looks that great on me. I fixed that by wearing my hair down, so it wouldn’t’ draw a lot of attention to that area. This fabric was not too bad to work with, it’s stretch, but not forgiving if you make a mistake. Be careful that you don’t have to seam rip anything because the holes will show. Also, if you sew too close to the edge and the thread tension messes up, it will look a little melted on the fabric because of the gathering and folding.

Front of the dress!

Front of the dress!

Back!

Back!

My handsome newly winged aviator!

My handsome newly winged aviator!

 

Double Layered Skirt

Recently, well perhaps a few weeks ago, I purchased 3 yards of Cinderella fabric form Etsy. I am absolutely in love with ANYTHING Cinderella. Seriously. It’s ridiculous. I just heard about the New Balance Cinderella running shoes coming out next year, and I already want to have them in my closet. I don’t even like New Balance, I use Brooks Ravenna running shoes – they’ve been the best for my feet. Anyways, I’m going to try to figure out a way to justify me getting them… Ideas? Send them my way! So I looked around on Pinterest for some inspiration on a new skirt style using elastic. I already have a tiered skirt that I made last year for the 4th of July. I wanted something a little special for my Cinderella fabric and something I could make easily without screwing up. I’ll also make a matching bow tie for my husband to wear with it. We like to match… Complete nerds? ABSOLUTELY! I made him a bow tie to match my American flag skirt. He was down with the idea of having a Cinderella bow tie. I have the BEST husband ever! So here is my quick tutorial on making a double layered skirt. It’s basically two skirts on top of each other with the skirt closest to the body being about 4-5 inches longer than the top layer.

Materials:

  • 1.5-2 yards of cotton blend fabric
  • Package (usually 3 yards in a package) of bias binding (opt.)
  • Waist band elastic (whatever thickness you’d like – I personally like thinner for this skirt)
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Pins
  • Safety pin to thread the elastic through the waist band
  • Thread to match the bias tape and skirt. (I used purple and white)
  • Sewing machine

STEP ONE:

Cut your fabric to your measurements for the bottom and top skirt. You don’t need to cut your skirt layer in one piece – if you have smaller pieces of fabric, you can cut the skirt into two pieces and make two seams instead of one. I am pretty small, my waist is 25 inches, so I just used my fabric the way it was and just cut the length I needed.

Skirt width: measure around your waist and you can double that (makes a fuller skirt) or multiply that by 1.5 (not as full). It’s a matter of preference to what you want!

Bottom skirt length: (Longer skirt length) Measure from the waist down to where you’d like the skirt to end. If you will be using bias tape then you don’t need to add any more to the length because you won’t be making a seam. If you don’t want to use bias tape then I would add 1 & 1/2 inches to the bottom.

Top layer skirt length: (shorter skirt length) My top  layer skirt was cut about about 5 inches shorter. If you’re making a child skirt, I’d probably go 2-3 inches, but to make it proportionate and look good, I did 5 inches.

Once you figure out your measurements, you can start cutting your fabric!

STEP TWO:

Each layer will be sewn separately then joined together. I put the bias tape on the bottom of the skirts and sewed them on. If you don’t want to use bias tape, then you can make your hems now. I like doing the tape/hems now, before I sew the side seams because when I make my side seam on the skirt, I like the tape to look good and go in the seam, if that makes sense. If you aren’t sure how to sew bias tape to a fabric edge, click HERE.

STEP THREE:

You should have two skirt layers now. Stuff the longer layer inside the shorter layer and match them up at the top of the skirt. Make sure you have the fabric facing the way it should look when you’re wearing the skirt. Now, pin the two layers together and baste stitch at the top of the skirt.

STEP FOUR:

Once you baste stitch, you’re going to fold the top part of the skirt over, to the inside about 1/4 inch or smaller, and sew it in place. This will finish the top of the skirt and make it look good. Or you can use bias tape at the top to bring it together. I didn’t like the look of it, so I didn’t use bias tape.

STEP FIVE:

Cut your elastic to your waist size minus an inch (or however you’d like it to fit) and then use your elastic to gauge how wide the casing needs to be. Make sure you leave an opening for the elastic to come in and out! I used pins to help me remember to start and stop. Then you’ll sew around the skirt making the casing – sewing the two skirt layers together.

STEP SIX:

Now, insert the elastic between the two skirt layers and into the opening hole using the safety pin to weed it through. Then sew the ends together, make sure the elastic is flat and not twisted inside the casing. Unless it doesn’t annoy you. Then sew the casing hole shut.

And you are FINISHED!

Tulle Skirt From An Old Skirt Tutorial

Lately I’ve been looking for some good tulle skirt tutorials. Read a lot of different blogs and watched quite a few on YouTube (here are two blogs that have really great tutorials that are worth checking out! Click HERE and HERE). I love tutus! I’ve been wanting one for a long long time! I never really thought about making my own until I bought a new sewing machine and finished some projects. Then I thought, why not make my own? I really like the semi-puffy looking ones not the flat looking ones. If you’re going to wear tulle, why not have it be semi-puffy like a mild tutu?! Well, I had an old white tiered skirt that I bought from K-Mart forever ago in the little girls section that was ripping on the tiers and I thought why not upcycle it into something else? So that’s what I did. I made it into a tulle skirt! Here is how I did it.

Materials:

  • Old skirt (or a skirt lining – 2 yards of satin and a waist band)
  • 8 yards of tulle (180″ wide tulle)
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Pins
  • Thread to match
  • Sewing machine
This was my old skirt that I will be converting into the tulle skirt.

This was my old skirt that I will be converting into the tulle skirt.

STEP ONE:

You will need to seam rip your old skirt. Separate the skirt, lining, and the band. You’ll need a lot of patience and you will definitely become best friends with your ripper.

*If you don’t have an old skirt to convert then you can get about 2 yards of satin for the lining. For the lining, you can cut it the same length as the tulle (I like it when they’re shorter, but whatever you want), and as wide as your hips plus about 10″. Make your lining. It’s really simple, not complicated. Then stretch your elastic around your waist and cut a comfortable but snug length (plus 1/2″ for seam allowance). Use a zig-zag stitch to bring the waist band together. Click HERE for a skirt tutorial, but don’t attach the lining to the band!

STEP TWO:

Once you have all the pieces seam-ripped, you can throw the old skirt away. Don’t forget to clean up the thread from the old skirt so your band and skirt lining are nice and clean.

STEP THREE:

You’ll need to cut your tulle. First, measure the skirt lining, which was about 32 inches around for my old skirt. I actually left the tulle folded in half (the way it looks on the bolt), I measured 64 inches across and cut then cut 6 inches off the bottom for my length I wanted. So I was basically working with two layers at a time. Since it was folded in half. You can cut more or less depending on your desired length. Then I pleated and pinned the tulle so it would fit perfectly around the skirt lining. It took about 10 pleats to make it fit around the lining. Don’t worry if it doesn’t match up or over lap because you’ll be doing two more layers of tulle. Since the tulle is folded over, your skirt will end up being six layers.

STEP FOUR:

Now you will want to baste stitch the pleats to make them stay. Do this for all three folded layers.

STEP FIVE:

Next you will pin the tulle to the skirt lining and stitch then sew it on. I used a zig-zag stitch, but you can use whatever stitch you want for this. Then do it for the next two layers of tulle.

STEP SIX:

Then with the right sides together (sides that will be showing on the outside), pin the band to the skirt. First pin the back to the back of the skirt, then the front to the front of the skirt. Then I did the sides to the sides of the skirt. Lastly, pin the fourths of the dress to the fourths of the elastic. Now you’re ready to sew the band to the skirt!

YOU’RE DONE! Whoopie!

Simplicity 1909 Dress

Today, I finished my dress for the Navy ball this weekend! It’s my first big project I have ever actually done. I read some reviews that said this dress is hard and not for the beginner. That may be true, but I finished it and I must say that it looks pretty good. I made a few changes to the pattern to make it more modest for my taste. The back went super low and I was not a fan of that, so I just brought it up. I also didn’t add any liner to the skirt of the dress and didn’t add the buttons to the back. I thought it would be too bulky and heavy for a ball gown. I did view C on the pattern (the top left of the packaging). I made a size 10 and brought it in a little to fit my waist and I used crepe back satin fabric.

Getting to work!

The most daunting task of anything related to sewing, at least to me, if you are using patterns is cutting and making sure everything lines up. It’s so tedious and I just want it to be over. I really just want to see the finished project. This one took me about a week with a couple days of not even touching it. So pretty much 4 days total. I also had to buy a new cutting mat because this one got too warped from our PCS (permanent change of station – military lingo for moving). We tried everything to fix it. Thank Heaven’s for Jo-Ann’s and their coupons! Also, be sure you actually read if the pattern goes side up or writing side down when you’re cutting out the fabric… It’ll help not waste fabric. Haha.

Here is the front part of the bodice.

The bodice is the first part you make according to directions. When I first bought fabric (5 yards), I wasn’t going to make a lining at all. I didn’t want the extra bulk and to be honest, the work. But after making the bodice, I decided I definitely needed to make a lining for it since it would help with the seams and make the dress look attractive. I actually didn’t even buy more fabric or any special lining fabric, I used the same fabric for it all and didn’t need extra. While making this dress, I learned what darts were and pleats. Near the shoulders, you were instructed to make pleats, but I just made darts and it turned out fine.

Working on the sleeves. Definitely need the liner.

The hardest part in making the dress was attaching to sleeves on correctly. I had to rip seam them a few times. Good thing I’ll probably just wear this dress this one time for the Navy Ball. I just got so excited and happy with my basting abilities and attaching the sleeve to the bodice, I wasn’t paying attention to which way I was sewing it. It’s hard to explain, but I made the back (where the zipper will go) the front. Then I did one sleeve correctly and the other was backwards. Ugh! After I got past this part, it wasn’t too bad. YouTube tutorials and blogs are amazing for helping with sewing definitions. It turned out well!

Working on the invisible zipper.

The invisible zipper was a little tricky, but wonder tape did WONDERS! Haha. Also, I have an amazing husband who would help me when I got frustrated and wanted to seam-rip the mess out of it all! I really want an invisible zipper foot. It’ll help the zipper be more invisible and so I don’t have to do some of it by hand. After I did the zipper, I put the dress on and decided how much I wanted to hem. I took about 3-4 inches off and then hemmed (I am about 61.5 inches tall). I did leave the train in the back because I thought it was adorable on me!

Ready for the Navy Ball 2013.

Back side of my dress.