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Double Layered Skirt

Recently, well perhaps a few weeks ago, I purchased 3 yards of Cinderella fabric form Etsy. I am absolutely in love with ANYTHING Cinderella. Seriously. It’s ridiculous. I just heard about the New Balance Cinderella running shoes coming out next year, and I already want to have them in my closet. I don’t even like New Balance, I use Brooks Ravenna running shoes – they’ve been the best for my feet. Anyways, I’m going to try to figure out a way to justify me getting them… Ideas? Send them my way! So I looked around on Pinterest for some inspiration on a new skirt style using elastic. I already have a tiered skirt that I made last year for the 4th of July. I wanted something a little special for my Cinderella fabric and something I could make easily without screwing up. I’ll also make a matching bow tie for my husband to wear with it. We like to match… Complete nerds? ABSOLUTELY! I made him a bow tie to match my American flag skirt. He was down with the idea of having a Cinderella bow tie. I have the BEST husband ever! So here is my quick tutorial on making a double layered skirt. It’s basically two skirts on top of each other with the skirt closest to the body being about 4-5 inches longer than the top layer.

Materials:

  • 1.5-2 yards of cotton blend fabric
  • Package (usually 3 yards in a package) of bias binding (opt.)
  • Waist band elastic (whatever thickness you’d like – I personally like thinner for this skirt)
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Pins
  • Safety pin to thread the elastic through the waist band
  • Thread to match the bias tape and skirt. (I used purple and white)
  • Sewing machine

STEP ONE:

Cut your fabric to your measurements for the bottom and top skirt. You don’t need to cut your skirt layer in one piece – if you have smaller pieces of fabric, you can cut the skirt into two pieces and make two seams instead of one. I am pretty small, my waist is 25 inches, so I just used my fabric the way it was and just cut the length I needed.

Skirt width: measure around your waist and you can double that (makes a fuller skirt) or multiply that by 1.5 (not as full). It’s a matter of preference to what you want!

Bottom skirt length: (Longer skirt length) Measure from the waist down to where you’d like the skirt to end. If you will be using bias tape then you don’t need to add any more to the length because you won’t be making a seam. If you don’t want to use bias tape then I would add 1 & 1/2 inches to the bottom.

Top layer skirt length: (shorter skirt length) My top  layer skirt was cut about about 5 inches shorter. If you’re making a child skirt, I’d probably go 2-3 inches, but to make it proportionate and look good, I did 5 inches.

Once you figure out your measurements, you can start cutting your fabric!

STEP TWO:

Each layer will be sewn separately then joined together. I put the bias tape on the bottom of the skirts and sewed them on. If you don’t want to use bias tape, then you can make your hems now. I like doing the tape/hems now, before I sew the side seams because when I make my side seam on the skirt, I like the tape to look good and go in the seam, if that makes sense. If you aren’t sure how to sew bias tape to a fabric edge, click HERE.

STEP THREE:

You should have two skirt layers now. Stuff the longer layer inside the shorter layer and match them up at the top of the skirt. Make sure you have the fabric facing the way it should look when you’re wearing the skirt. Now, pin the two layers together and baste stitch at the top of the skirt.

STEP FOUR:

Once you baste stitch, you’re going to fold the top part of the skirt over, to the inside about 1/4 inch or smaller, and sew it in place. This will finish the top of the skirt and make it look good. Or you can use bias tape at the top to bring it together. I didn’t like the look of it, so I didn’t use bias tape.

STEP FIVE:

Cut your elastic to your waist size minus an inch (or however you’d like it to fit) and then use your elastic to gauge how wide the casing needs to be. Make sure you leave an opening for the elastic to come in and out! I used pins to help me remember to start and stop. Then you’ll sew around the skirt making the casing – sewing the two skirt layers together.

STEP SIX:

Now, insert the elastic between the two skirt layers and into the opening hole using the safety pin to weed it through. Then sew the ends together, make sure the elastic is flat and not twisted inside the casing. Unless it doesn’t annoy you. Then sew the casing hole shut.

And you are FINISHED!

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Tulle Skirt From An Old Skirt Tutorial

Lately I’ve been looking for some good tulle skirt tutorials. Read a lot of different blogs and watched quite a few on YouTube (here are two blogs that have really great tutorials that are worth checking out! Click HERE and HERE). I love tutus! I’ve been wanting one for a long long time! I never really thought about making my own until I bought a new sewing machine and finished some projects. Then I thought, why not make my own? I really like the semi-puffy looking ones not the flat looking ones. If you’re going to wear tulle, why not have it be semi-puffy like a mild tutu?! Well, I had an old white tiered skirt that I bought from K-Mart forever ago in the little girls section that was ripping on the tiers and I thought why not upcycle it into something else? So that’s what I did. I made it into a tulle skirt! Here is how I did it.

Materials:

  • Old skirt (or a skirt lining – 2 yards of satin and a waist band)
  • 8 yards of tulle (180″ wide tulle)
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Pins
  • Thread to match
  • Sewing machine
This was my old skirt that I will be converting into the tulle skirt.

This was my old skirt that I will be converting into the tulle skirt.

STEP ONE:

You will need to seam rip your old skirt. Separate the skirt, lining, and the band. You’ll need a lot of patience and you will definitely become best friends with your ripper.

*If you don’t have an old skirt to convert then you can get about 2 yards of satin for the lining. For the lining, you can cut it the same length as the tulle (I like it when they’re shorter, but whatever you want), and as wide as your hips plus about 10″. Make your lining. It’s really simple, not complicated. Then stretch your elastic around your waist and cut a comfortable but snug length (plus 1/2″ for seam allowance). Use a zig-zag stitch to bring the waist band together. Click HERE for a skirt tutorial, but don’t attach the lining to the band!

STEP TWO:

Once you have all the pieces seam-ripped, you can throw the old skirt away. Don’t forget to clean up the thread from the old skirt so your band and skirt lining are nice and clean.

STEP THREE:

You’ll need to cut your tulle. First, measure the skirt lining, which was about 32 inches around for my old skirt. I actually left the tulle folded in half (the way it looks on the bolt), I measured 64 inches across and cut then cut 6 inches off the bottom for my length I wanted. So I was basically working with two layers at a time. Since it was folded in half. You can cut more or less depending on your desired length. Then I pleated and pinned the tulle so it would fit perfectly around the skirt lining. It took about 10 pleats to make it fit around the lining. Don’t worry if it doesn’t match up or over lap because you’ll be doing two more layers of tulle. Since the tulle is folded over, your skirt will end up being six layers.

STEP FOUR:

Now you will want to baste stitch the pleats to make them stay. Do this for all three folded layers.

STEP FIVE:

Next you will pin the tulle to the skirt lining and stitch then sew it on. I used a zig-zag stitch, but you can use whatever stitch you want for this. Then do it for the next two layers of tulle.

STEP SIX:

Then with the right sides together (sides that will be showing on the outside), pin the band to the skirt. First pin the back to the back of the skirt, then the front to the front of the skirt. Then I did the sides to the sides of the skirt. Lastly, pin the fourths of the dress to the fourths of the elastic. Now you’re ready to sew the band to the skirt!

YOU’RE DONE! Whoopie!

Make A Baggy Shirt Into A Fitted Shirt Tutorial

I’ve been searching around online for a DIY fitted shirt tutorials and found a few that I liked. Most of them are on YouTube and some are on blogs. After searching I decided to combine what I learned along with my own ideas into my own tutorial on my blog. I started this venture because I bought an adult-size Barbie shirt off Ebay and I’m tired of all the adult shirts (shirts that are given out for races, concerts, etc) being bagging on me. Plus, I’m going as Barbie for Halloween and my husband will be GI Joe. We wanted something cheap and easy this year and we have all of his costume (compliments of his Naval Academy days), minus the beret. We actually bought a velvet black hat from Goodwill and turned the bill inside the hat and it works. So today I decided to try out a few ideas on making a loose shirt fitted; so when I make my Barbie shirt fitted, I would be a “pro” at it. What kind of Barbie wears loose clothes anyways? 😛

Materials needed:

  • Fitted shirt to use for a pattern
  • Pinking shears or fabric scissors
  • Pins
  • Matching thread
  • Sewing gauge
  • Sewing machine
  • Double needle for machine – optional (I like it for the bottom and sleeve hems – looks more professional)

The blue shirt will be the one used in the tutorial for making it fitted. The mint shirt is the fitted shirt that I’ll use as my pattern. The red shirt has already been fitted and will be what the blue shirt will end up looking like.

STEP ONE:

Fold your loose shirt over with the fitted shirt on top. Make sure everything is lined up perfectly! Check the collar and shoulders. If you would like, ironing would be a good idea.

STEP TWO:

Start cutting your shirt with your scissors and don’t forget the seam-allowance! When I get to the shoulders I cut off a few inches of the sleeve and then curve, the arm-pit area, to the body of the shirt.

STEP THREE:

Next you need to hem your sleeves and the bottom if you cut it to make it shorter. I used a sewing gauge to measure the distance from where the shoulder seam meets the sleeve to the edge on each side so both sides are balanced. Then I used an iron on the sleeves to keep them in place. Then I cut the bottom of the shirt so I can shorten it a little and add a hem it with the white thread to match my sleeves.

STEP FOUR:Pin the right sides together and sew! Make sure that the sleeves are lined up and the bottom too! Then turn it right side out and…

YOU’RE FINISHED!